When I was a little girl my Nana knit me and my sisters lots of beautiful clothes. The jumper I have the fondest memories of had the cutest little ducks parading around the bottom. I’m still searching for a photo to share with you so watch this space.
Since learning to crochet, and especially since spending more time experimenting with tapestry crochet, I’ve wanted to try to recreate those little creatures.
I found lots of brilliant free cross stitch patterns online. Particularly, a lovely chart by Cheryl at Hobby Loco really struct a cord with me and formed the bases for my chart. But there was something missing. Then I realised, what is a parade of ducks if the ducks aren’t wearing party hats. So, there you have it!
As you can see from the photos, I made four squares to make a wall hanging but you could easily make the squares into a baby blanket, cushion cover or dolly blanket. I can’t wait to see what you come up with xxx
Size
Each of the finished squares measures approx. 15cm square (including border)
Gauge/Tension
19st x 22 rows to measure 10cm square
Don’t worry too much about matching my gauge. As long as you keep your chosen gauge consistent throughout then your work will look beautiful.
Hook and Yarn
I used a 4mm hook with Ricorumi DK Cotton to make my squares.
Yarn A - White
Yarn B - Tangerine (feet, beak, wing)
Yarn C – Yellow (body and head)
Yarn D - Black (eye)
Yarn E - Gold Lame (hat)
Yarn F - Additional colour for bobble
Abbreviations
ch chain stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
dc double crochet
htr half treble crochet
RS right side
WS wrong side
lp(s) loop(s)
yo yarn over
rep repeat
* repeat instructions after asterisk as directed
nxt next
sk skip
bo bobble stitch
Colour changes
Make colour changes with the last yarn over of the previous stitch.
Yarn B and C
When working the duck (Yarn B and Yarn C) carry Yarn A within the work. Alternatively, Yarn A could be floated behind the work if the WS of the work will remain hidden (e.g. wall hanging or cushion cover).
Release yarn colours used to work the duck (Yarn B and Yarn C) to the WS of the work before working the background colour (Yarn A). These yarn colours can then be picked up again in the following row. It is not necessary to carry all yarn colours to the end of the row.
Yarn E
When working Yarn E (party hat) carry Yarn A within the sts. Release Yarn E to the WS of the work once sts are complete to be picked up again in the following row.
Bobble stitch (bo)
To work the party hat bobble, with Yarn F *yo, pull up a lp, yo, pull through 2 lps; rep from * 2 more times, drop Yarn E, with Yarn A yo, pull through all 4 lps on hook. Continue as directed.
DIRECTIONS
With YA, ch 28.
Row 1 [RS]: dc1 in 2nd ch from the hook (ch1 does not count as a st), dc across, turn. [27 dc] Row 2 [WS]: Ch1 (does not count as a dc throughout), dc across, turn. Row 3: Ch1, dc11, with Yarn B dc7, with Yarn A dc9, turn. Row 4: Ch1, dc11, with Yarn B dc1, with Yarn A dc2, with Yarn B dc1, with Yarn A dc12, turn. Row 5: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn B dc1, with Yarn A dc2, with Yarn B dc1, with Yarn A dc11, turn. Row 6: Rep Row 4. Fasten off Yarn B. Row 7: Ch1, dc11, with Yarn C dc6, with Yarn A dc10, turn. Row 8: Ch1, dc8, with Yarn C dc9, with Yarn A dc10, turn. Row 9: Ch1, dc9, with Yarn C dc11, with Yarn A dc7, turn. Row 10: Ch1, dc7, with Yarn C dc3, with Yarn B dc6, with Yarn C dc3, with Yarn A dc8, turn. Row 11: Ch1, dc7, with Yarn C dc6, with Yarn B dc5, with Yarn C dc2, with Yarn A dc7, turn. Row 12: Ch1, dc7, with Yarn C dc2, with Yarn B dc3, with Yarn C dc9, with Yarn A dc6, turn. Row 13: Ch1, dc5, with Yarn C dc11, with Yarn B dc2, with Yarn C dc2, with Yarn A dc7, turn. Row 14: Ch1, dc7, with Yarn C dc2, with Yarn B dc1, with Yarn C dc6, with Yarn A dc11, turn. Fasten off Yarn B. Row 15: Ch1, dc15, with Yarn C dc5, with Yarn A dc7, turn. Row 16: Ch1, dc8, with Yarn C dc5, with Yarn A dc14, turn. Row 17: Ch1, dc13, with Yarn C dc5, with Yarn A dc9, turn. Row 18: Ch1, dc8, with Yarn C dc7, with Yarn A dc12, turn. Row 19: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn C dc7, with Yarn B dc3, with Yarn A dc5, turn. Row 20: Ch1, dc6, with Yarn B dc2, with Yarn C dc6, with Yarn E dc1, with Yarn A dc12, turn. Row 21: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn E dc2, with Yarn C dc2, with Yarn D dc1, with Yarn C dc2, with Yarn B dc1, with Yarn A dc7, turn. Fasten off Yarn B and Yarn D. Row 22: Ch1, dc8, with Yarn C dc4, with Yarn E dc3, with Yarn A dc12, turn. Row 23: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn E dc4, with Yarn C dc2, with Yarn A dc9, turn. Fasten off Yarn C. Row 24: Ch1, dc10, with Yarn E dc5, with Yarn A dc12, turn. Row 25: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn E dc4, with Yarn A dc11, turn. Row 26: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn E dc3, with Yarn A dc12, turn. Row 27: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn E dc2, with Yarn A dc13, turn. Row 28: Ch1, dc14, with Yarn E dc1, with Yarn A dc12, turn. Fasten off Yarn E. Row 29: Ch1, dc12, with Yarn F bo1, with Yarn A dc14, turn. Fasten off Yarn F. Row 30 and 31: Ch1, dc across. Do NOT fasten off Yarn A Border (continuing from above)
Ch3 (counts as 1st htr), 2htr in same st as ch3, *ch1, sk nxt st, 1htr in nxt st; rep around, working 3htr in each corner.
TAPESTRY CROCHET CHART
· Each square represents 1 dc.
· Row 1 starts bottom right and works from right to left.
· Odd numbered rows work from right to left and even numbered rows work from left to right.
· Colours used in the chart relate to the yarn colours listed above.
· Colour changes are made with the last yarn over of the previous st.
